AHAS: a unique exfoliation

It is not without reason that they are called "fruit acids" since they are present in apples ( malic acid ), citrus fruits (citric acid), grapes ( tartaric acid ) ... But they are also found in sugar cane ( glycolic acid ), fermented milk ( lactic acid ), and even in synthetic form.

Soluble in water, they act in a unique way on the surface of the skin by weakening the bonds between dead cells . Quickly eliminated, these cells leave room for the renewal of the superficial layer of the epidermis . A real detox for the skin, which, once freed from its impurities, also becomes more receptive to moisturizing or anti-aging treatments.

Beyond their exfoliating power, AHAs improve the quality of elastin (the precious elastic fibers of the dermis) and stimulate collagen synthesis: the epidermis is more supple, more homogeneous, firmer and soft to the touch. A guaranteed youthful effect!

The key AHAs in cosmetic care

Glycolic acid : the best known and most used due to its effectiveness (due to the lightness of its molecular weight), it is also the most irritating.

Lactic acid : a gentler alternative to glycolic acid, more suitable for sensitive skin.

Tartaric acid : Antioxidant and lightening, its exfoliating action is however lighter. It is also used to optimize the performance of other AHAs because it maintains the pH level at which they are most effective.

Phytic acid : it also has antioxidant, lightening and anti-inflammatory properties, and also plays a stabilizing role in formulas.

Citric acid : Like tartaric acid, it is what is called a “weak AHA” that helps regulate the pH of the skin. It is also an excellent natural preservative.

BHAs: a more in-depth action

If AHAs are water-soluble, BHAs are liposoluble, i.e. soluble in fat! They attack the intercellular lipids that keep dead cells on the surface, but unlike AHAs, they also act in depth. Indeed, by passing through the follicles, they are able to reach the heart of the pores, which they will exfoliate and unclog from excess sebum . The result? Smoother, tighter skin.

Champions in the treatment of blemish-prone skin thanks to their anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties, BHAs help to effectively combat blackheads and uneven skin tone. Qualities that make them friends of oily and acne-prone skin.

Salicylic acid: star of the bhas

Its name may mean something to you because it is used in the composition of aspirin tablets! Present in its natural state in white willow, birch bark or wintergreen leaves, it is the most widely used BHA in the cosmetic world, generally in its synthetic form.

It is also the most powerful! Less irritating than glycolic acid , and this because of its molecule size (larger) and its anti-inflammatory qualities, it is a delight for acne-prone skin. Because in addition to its exfoliating action , it unclogs and cleanses pores , reduces sebum production: redness disappears, the complexion becomes even... An essential ingredient in the search for flawless skin!

AHAs and BHAs: common virtues

Extremely effective, AHAs and BHAs can irritate the most sensitive skin. A few precautions are therefore necessary to make the most of their incredible qualities. Discover the valuable advice of our expert dermatologist: the guarantee, for you, to use these beauty allies with complete peace of mind.

• Start with a low concentration peel and limit yourself to one application per week to let your skin get used to it.
• If you're planning to go out in the sun, wait until you get back to start your new routine.
• Once your skin is used to it, gradually increase the frequency of applications and/or move towards a more concentrated product.
• Apply to well-cleansed, dry skin, preferably in the evening when cell renewal is at its highest.
• Apply a small amount to the face, avoiding sensitive areas such as the eyelids, neck and décolleté.
• Moisturize generously to limit irritation and optimize the action of the acids.
• Choose between Retinol and AHAs/BHAs! The combination could dehydrate your skin. If you are planning a treatment, remember to notify your facialist.
• Do not expose your face to the sun after your peel. And, whatever the season, protect it with sunscreen for the duration of your treatment and for at least 1 to 2 weeks afterward. Choose an SPF of at least 30, to apply in the morning and reapply every 2 hours.
• If, despite all these precautions, your skin feels tight or peeling, or is abnormally red, don't stress! Space out the applications, reduce the amount applied and moisturize the following days.

Essential for a new skin in spring, AHAs and BHAs are incomparable assets for an effective and regenerating exfoliation. Often combined for optimized results, they will offer you the best of themselves provided you find the right rhythm. So, start gently… Your patience will quickly be rewarded!